Expat Stories: Marie & Lorenzo Remodel a 12th Century Home in Tuscany
I don’t quite remember how I met Marie of Authentic Tuscany online, but I really like what she does and how she communicated. So when I came up with the idea of these expat stories and my Thursday Takeovers, I knew I wanted to talk to her about the idea.
I scheduled a time to talk to her over the phone and an hour and a half later, it felt like we were long lost friends.
I hope you guys enjoy hearing about her and her husband’s Lorenzo’s story as much as I did, so without further ado, let’s dive right into it.
AUTHENTIC TUSCANY
WHERE SHOULD WE BEGIN?
Hi, we are Marie and Lorenzo, living ‘la dolce vita’ in a small Medieval town in Tuscany!
We are the proud owners of a 12th Century Medieval tower house which we have been lovingly restoring since the day we were handed the keys back in 2007!
From the moment we unlocked the enormous 15th Century doors with a giant ancient key to finding sunken trebuchet balls (catapult balls) in the garden, Casa Colomba became our labour of love, our passion and our drug!
We opened the doors of Casa Colomba to guests in 2010.
WHY THE MOVE AND WHEN?
I sort of feel like it would be easier if I answer this in a timeline format. so:
1997 - Lorenzo and I met in the UK in a small leafy town in Surrey England. Lorenzo had come from his native Italy to work and learn the English language.
1999 - We decided to move to Italy for a better quality of life and to escape the English weather! We decided on Lago d’Orta because Lorenzo had work connections there.
2000 – We had a fairytale wedding on Lago d’Orta
2002 - A chance weekend invite to Tuscany was the reason we said goodbye to the Lakes. It started with a daytrip to Pisa and we loved the vibe of this University City but it was the surrounding countryside and hidden hilltop towns which really grabbed our imagination.
2003 - Lorenzo found work in Tuscany
2003 – We moved to the small Medieval town of Vicopisano
WHY DID YOU CHOSE VICOPISANO AS A PLACE TO LIVE?
We stumbled across the Medieval town of Vicopisano as we explored the Pisan countryside. We needed to find somewhere which was an easy commute to the airport!
Vicopisano awakened our senses to living like a local in a small Tuscan town. We loved the characteristic historic centre which felt like we had stepped back in time but yet this off the beaten tourist trail town is close to the major Tuscan art cities of Pisa, Lucca and Florence all of which can be reached within 25 to 45 minutes.
Vicopisano offered everything we needed – a grocery store, a baker, a couple of bars and two restaurants. There are two weekly markets where we can buy direct from the farmers and a local olive press where we can buy our extra virgin olive oil direct from the producer! Combined with the friendly locals and the many local festivals held throughout the year it was an easy decision to make Vicopisano our home.
One of our favourite community events is our ‘Cena Sotto le Stelle’ a communal dinner of 400 plus people which takes place on our street at the beginning of July. Vicopisano also holds a fantastic Medieval festival (Festa Medievale) during the first weekend of September – This is a time when our little town is transported back to a time 1000 years ago!
Another deciding factor for choosing Vicopisano is that it is located only a 30-minute drive from the Mediterranean Sea and to walk along long sandy beaches whatever the season is one of our passions.
WHAT DO YOU DO FOR A LIVING? HOW DID YOU END UP IN THAT INDUSTRY?
Lorenzo and I both currently work within the business these days although initially we both held down ‘day jobs’ during the restoration and the first few years of accepting guests.
After the purchase of Casa Colomba in 2007 came the painstaking and loving restoration of each of its floors including a 12th Century tower room but as with many historic restoration projects the budget ran out before the project was finished!
To inject more income into the dream, the top floor of our new home became an overnight vacation rental – we took some photos and posted our details on the web and within 24 hours we had received four enquiries and hence our journey began.
We had always wanted to share Casa Colomba with guests from around the world although it happened much quicker than expected.
Lorenzo’s background - On leaving school he attended hotel and catering collage. He opened his own bar with his brother in Torino in 1992. Although the bar was successful, he decided to travel and learn languages while leaving his brother at the helm. Lorenzo has worked both home and abroad in 4 and 5 star hotels mainly as a professional barista but also on reception and concierge.
My background - I gained a degree in sports science and leisure management and initially worked in the fitness and wellbeing industry as a fitness instructor and health club manager. I also became a qualified yoga instructor. In 1997, I decided it was time to travel and was accepted as cabin crew for a British airline. My intention was to see the world in style for a couple of years but the two years turned into almost 20 years! I finally hung up my wings in 2016.
CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE SPOTS TO EAT, GO OUT AND EXPLORE?
RESTAURANTS
We are lucky to have 4 restaurants within an easy walking distance from our home which is amazing for such a small town. We patronise them all as they are all excellent and offer something different from each other.
For example, we have a Pizzeria Le Belle Torri who produces a deliciously thin pizza very popular with our guests – we also love his Cecina which is typical Tuscan street food.
Macelleria Testi is run by Luigi and his son Massimiliano both master butchers. Macelleria Testi has been serving Vicopisano residents since 1960 from a humble butcher shop. Two years ago the business expanded into a modern stylish ‘Tuscan Steak house’ - a huge hit with both our guests and Tuscans who come from miles around for a Testi – Fiorentina!
Taverna Aurora ideally located in the square serves traditional Tuscan favourites and is extremely popular with the locals. Aurora also doubles up as a café bar and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Recently restored by it’s current owners the Ricci family the bar/restaurant has a charming Tuscan ambiance of exposed stone walls and timber beamed ceilings.
Tucked away in the historic centre is Osteria Lo Scudo a charming little restaurant run by chef Michele who specialises in seafood. Michele has been a chef for over 30 years and recently realised his dream by opening up this restaurant in June 2020 right at the end of Italy’s lockdown!
Last but not least we have the stylishly elegant La Divinia Commedia del Gusto – a hilltop hideaway located just above Vicopisano. Creative chef Veronica and sommelier husband Massimo have created an elegant dining experience in this characteristic restaurant with a romantic panoramic terrace with views over the pine covered hills.
SIGHTS
For a small town, there is so much to see and do in Vicopisano. For example, in the historic centre is the magnificent fortress known as La Rocca. This fortress is the brainchild of the Renaissance engineer Brunelleschi. This impressive feat of Renaissance engineering was designed to both trap and defeat invading enemies.
Brunelleschi’s Medieval masterpiece is both fascinating and intriguing and for a small entrance fee visitors can take a guided tour with either local historian Professor Giovanni Fascetti or one of his team.
EXPLORING
We are extremely lucky to be located within the Pisa, Lucca, Florence triangle meaning that in less than an hour we can explore all these beautiful cities plus the wider region of Tuscany with ease. However, our favourite places to explore tend to be the off the beaten track – rarely mentioned in the guidebooks type of places.
I would say we are real foodies, even though we rarely have time to spend in the kitchen these days! We love to seek out culinary adventures for our guests. Over the years we have introduced our guests to ‘discovering the secrets of extra virgin olive oil’ down at our local olive farm, cooking lessons with a Tuscan cook, Truffle hunting experiences where we go out with the truffle hunter and his dogs, wine tasting experiences at nearby vineyards and lately we have been enjoying foraging - an activity which we had hoped to introduce to our guests this year!
We also love exploring and hiking the Monte Pisano a small range of hills which sits between the plains of Pisa and Lucca. Our town Vicopisano is located on the lower slopes of this small range of hills offering us easy access to hit the trails.
WHAT'S YOUR EXPERIENCE BEING A PERSON OF COLOR/BLACK WOMAN IN ITALY? HAS IT CHANGED/EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS?
The first few years were difficult!
I generally felt unwelcome and I was aware of being stared at as if I was an intruder. I didn’t experience encounters such as being ‘stopped and interrogated’ or being followed around a shop suspiciously in case I took something. In fact, I was ignored a lot when I walked into shops, it was like I didn’t exist! I was rarely greeted with a ‘boungiorno’ which is so often used to greet customers especially in small shops in Italy. And if I did pluck up the courage to approach the sales assistant or owner – I was looked at from head to toe with disdain, greeted with the informal ‘dimmi’ followed by a screwing up of the nose when I replied in my beginners Italian!
I cried a lot in those days but I’m strong and I decided I wouldn’t be beaten. However after 3 years of being treated like a second class citizen I was ready to leave Italy but a chance weekend invite to Tuscany to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa changed all that!
The first thing I noticed is that nobody took a blind bit of notice of me! Gone where the stares of disdain and people even smiled at me. Things had got so bad for me in Piedmont I had taken to walking into shops and public places behind my husband with my head bowed low avoiding eye contact and conversation.
But here in Tuscany (Pisa to be precise) I received my first ever ‘Buongiorno signora mi dica’. And things didn’t change when we moved out of the tourist cities and into the small towns and villages as we explored the region – people were generally polite and only looked at us out of curiosity because we were obviously out of towners.
It was that weekend which kept me here in Italy! Having said that - I would like to add that I do have some good memories of the small village where I lived on the shores of the lake. I did have lovely neighbours and I was generally accepted but I often wondered how I would have been treated as a black girl alone without an Italian partner or if I had been here with my black family.
I have not been back to the region where we first lived 20 years ago so I can’t tell if that particular region has evolved regarding their attitude towards black people. I believe that if we had moved to Tuscany initially maybe I would not have been so aware of the racist attitudes. There is still a long way to go in Italy compared to where I grew up in the UK which I personally believe is one of the most integrated countries in the world – although when I was growing up as a child that was also another story!
WHAT ARE SOME THINGS YOU WISH YOU WOULD HAVE KNOWN BEFORE COMING TO ITALY?
So many things, I don’t know where to start!
The lack of opportunities for entrepreneurs
The high taxes
Attitudes towards women – this has improved since I first came here in 1999 – I couldn’t believe the blatant exploitation and representation of women on Italian television
The unemployment situation and the difficulty to find work if you are over a certain age
It can be difficult to make new friends as Italians tend to have the same friends from childhood as well as tending to socialise a lot with their families
Lots of things depend on ‘who you know’ and not ‘what you know’
ANY ADVICE YOU'D GIVE TO SOMEBODY WANTING TO MOVE TO ITALY?
To get the most out of living the ‘sweet life’ in Italy be prepared to adapt, learn a little about the culture, the language and traditions especially if you are hoping to live in a small town or village.
If possible, take a long-term vacation here in an area where you think you would like to live. Feel what it’s like to really live here. There is a huge difference between being here on vacation and living here.
Do your research, seek out expats who already live here by way of blogs, social media etc… Ask questions from people who are living a life similar to how you would like to live.
Seek out bilingual professionals if you are considering running a business here - there is a lot of bureaucracy and expert advice is needed.
So guys what do you think? Has this article has inspired you to Move to Italy, despite the challenges? After all, Doing Italy can be that expert advice…
If so sign up for info on our new course, Move to Italy here or via the sign-up sheet below
Do you have any other questions about Moving to Italy, or about Marie and Lorenzo’s business and experience here?
Sound off in the comments below and I’ll reply just as soon as I can!
And definitely make sure you like Marie and Lorenzo’s Authentic Tuscany on Instagram and Facebook.
